Great brows? They’re no accident—they’re a work of art. Even the most skilled professionals can refine their techniques to achieve even better results for their clients. If you’re in the business of brows, precision is everything. Here are the top brow shaping tips to elevate your craft and ensure every arch is perfection.
1. Over-Tweezing or Over-Waxing
The pencil-thin brow trend of the ’90s may have made a brief comeback, but that’s no excuse to go overboard. Over-tweezing or waxing too aggressively can leave brows looking sparse, uneven, or permanently compromised.
Fix it: Work with (not against) the natural brow shape. Use the golden ratio technique to map out the ideal shape before removing even a single hair. If a client has over-plucked brows, recommend Brow Code Multi-Peptide Growth Serum and a Professional Brow Tint to restore fullness while they grow back.
2. Ignoring Face Shape When Designing Brows
Every client deserves a brow shape that enhances their unique features—not just a one-size-fits-all approach. The best professionals tailor their techniques to each individual, ensuring every arch complements their client’s natural beauty. Not every client can—or should—rock a sky-high arch.
The Fix: Tailor the brow shape to the client’s bone structure and natural features. Softer brows work best for angular faces, while a more defined arch can lift a round face. True brow artistry is about creating balance, not just following trends.
3. Uneven or Overly High Arches
A mismatched arch can make even the most symmetrical face look slightly off. It’s easy to get carried away lifting one side too high or sculpting one arch more dramatically than the other.
The Fix: Step back frequently and check for symmetry under different lighting. Use Charcoal Mapping Thread to create a symmetrical roadmap before tweezing or waxing.
4. Using the Wrong Brow Tint Shade
The right tint enhances, not overpowers. For fair skin, a softer shade creates harmony, while deeper brunettes shine with richer tones that add definition without looking too light. Choosing the wrong shade can instantly throw off the entire look and disrupt the harmony of their facial features.
The Fix: Match the brow tint to the client’s hair colour and skin undertone. For a natural effect, go one to two shades lighter than the hair colour for darker-haired clients and one shade darker for blondes and redheads. When using treatments like Lemon Lights, follow the Color Timing Charts for precise results.
5. Neglecting the Brow Tail
The tail of the brow is the unsung hero of the face structure but it’s often overextended or cut too short, making brows look unbalanced.
The Fix: The brow tail should end where the corner of the nose aligns with the outer corner of the eye. Anything longer can drag the face down, while anything shorter can make the brow look unfinished.
6. Skipping the Finishing Touches
Even a perfectly shaped brow can fall flat without the proper finishing touches. Uneven edges, stray hairs, or an unblended tint job can leave a client feeling underwhelmed.
The Fix: Always trim, blend, and set the brows before your client leaves the chair. A clear brow gel can lock everything in place, while a touch of brow pencil or pomade can enhance the shape.
7. Not Educating Clients on Brow Maintenance
A flawless brow service is only half the job! Clients need to know how to maintain their shape between appointments.
The Fix: Offer tailored aftercare advice and suggest a follow-up appointment. Recommend products that will keep brows looking full, healthy, and defined (think brow serums, pencils, and setting gels). Remember, your expertise extends beyond the appointment.
Mastering brows is an art, but avoiding these common mistakes is what separates good brow artists from great ones. By focusing on precision, symmetry, and personalisation, you’ll ensure that every client walks away with their best brows yet and keeps coming back for more.
